Interlude : Now I've finished the hull planking I will do the deck framework.  My hull did actually take on a slight hog during the planking.  That is the middle of the keel is now slightly higher than the forward and aft ends.  It's only about 2mm, so I'm not going to do anything about it.  It's not enough to notice.  However, if I'd done the deck framework before planking it wouldn't fit perfectly now, so I'm glad I decided to wait.

How I did it

First off, I tried all the frames in place.  Here is the first frame.  Note the piece of paper to stop the beams sticking to the hull frame.

The object being to make sure the top of the deck frame was flush with the top of the hull frame.  Most were OK.  Some were proud and needed a little sanding on the underside.  Some of them sat a little too low.  I fixed this by gluing a shim of thin card on the bottom of the frame.  Why card? I hear you ask.  Well, it's easy to find, nice and thin, and easy to apply.  Once it's glued in place with waterproof white glue and given a coat of varnish it will be water proof as well.

Here you can see all the frames held in place with clothes pegs.

The beams were all test fitted before I glued them.  Because the deck has a natural curve, the bow and stern are higher than the middle, the beams needed bending slightly to get them to fit perfectly.  I steamed them.  It takes a little longer than steaming the hull planks, but the process is the same.

Here are the first 2 beams in place

Here are the rest of the beams in place and the clips removed.  I've marked the centre line of the frame work to help when it come to fitting the deck planking.

Here is the rear framework.  The rear couple of frames seemed to bend upward over a couple of days.  However, a deft application of steam to the flat longitudinal part soon bent them back into shape.

The rear framework was quite tight to locate and would only fit if it was dropped in from directly above.  Personally I think decks should be easy to locate and remove as this helps to avoid damage to the delicate details that will eventually be fitted.  There were some protrusions that snagged the forward most of the frames.  This is circled in blue towards the bottom of the photo.  Once removed (top blue circle), the rear framework is much easier to locate and remove, but still sits securely when in place. 

Finally the first plank from issue 16 is fitted.  I drew a centre line on the plank and centre marks on the frames to make sure it was straight and true.

 

How many hours does it take to build the model ??

This week :

4 hrs

Running total :

66 hrs

Take me back to week 16

Take me to week 17