Week 42 This week we get ply portholes
The bits we received
And what we did with them
I didn't like these bits, so I'm not going to use them. Three reasons really.
1. Tapering the ply rectangle to a sharp edge seems difficult
to do, and even more difficult to get a good result.
2. The ply is difficult to bend, so not very easy to fit.
3. The port holes are not correct. There are some missing, and some extras to fill in. We can expect a template to mark the correct holes in issue 58.
I'm going to simply plank the areas that would be covered by these ply parts, and mark the correct port holes when we get the template later.
The tapered part, where the hull tapers into the armour belt is the most awkward part to to. Here's how I did it.
First, I cut out the planked section between the two frames. I kept the parts I cut out - you'll see why later. The I sanded the ends of the armour belt area smooth.
The angled part actually spans from the outside of each frame, so I needed to to a bit more work. I glued a scrap of ply in front of the forward frame as shown.
Now I can cut out the planking where it is glued to the frame. I also cut a bevel on the front of the rear planking so the new planks will lay flat.
I'm going to use some 1mm planks (which actually seem to be about 0.7mm) to plank the tapered part. As the planks on the armour belt are 1.5mm, I needed to put a spacer on the frame so the planks on the taper will be flush with those on the armour belt. A scrap of 1mm plank seemed perfect for this.
Now I cut 6 planks, all 17mm long (your measurement may be slightly different) from the 1mm planks and glued them in place.
I made a simply jig as shown below to make it easy to cut the planks to exactly the same length. The arms of the U are 5mm apart, and 17mm long. Just slide the 1x5mm plank into the U, push it against the end and cut off. 6 planks, all the same length and the cuts are exactly square. It only took a few mins to make the jig.
The planking is complete, but rather weak as it's only 0.7mm thick. Brace it from behind using the bit of planking that you cut out in the first step.
Sand the top flush and complete the rest of the planking to the stern, which is straight forward.
The forward section will be done in a similar way.
The line of the angle is on the rear of frame 28 which means I have to add a support for the planks, which is simply an off cut of the planking as seen below.
Here is a view of the completed planking from the inside, showing where the planks land on the extra support. Later I will glue the cut out section back on the inside to strengthen it.
Here is the view from the outside. Note that I've used planks cut in half so they go round the curve of the bow easier.
I still need to sand and add the second planking over the bow section, where the ply would have gone.
Things not yet done
Fitting the fore deck
Stern deck part 63 not fitted.
Fitting resin stern part 70
Fitting resin propshaft part D
Fit the bilge keels
Hot tip of the week
How many hours does it take to build the model ??
This week :
Running total :