Week 37  This week we get the sea chest pattern and the bilge keel

The bits we received

And what we did with them

I cut more scores in the cooling water inlet ply template than the instructions suggest, to get a more even curve.  I used a razor saw rather than a craft knife, and this gives a nice easily controlled cut.  I cut almost half way through the wood.  It is quite easy to judge.  The middle of the ply is darker than the outsides, so I just cut until I could see dark wood, and then went a little further.

I used a pair of smooth jawed pliers to bend the ply at each score cut.  The wood cracked audibly every time I bent it, but this is just the fibres breaking, allowing the ply to flex.  It didn't actually break, but it did take up a rather nice curve making it easier to fit to the hull.

Next I drew round the part, so I knew where exactly where to apply the glue.  I applied a thin coat of PVA to the hull, and also applied a coat to the ply part as well. The glue on the hull had gone touch dry by the time I'd finished applying glue to the ply part, but this is fine.  It's there to prime the wood and gives a strong join.

Then I held the part in place with a mixture of planking clamps and map pins.  Kilroy and his new apprentice (who has yet to be christened, suggestions on the forum please) lent a helping hand.  Unfortunately this turned out to be less than successful.  The ply didn't sit flat all the way along.  However, even worse, I realised that I'd put the darn thing on backwards.  Grrrrrrrrrrrrr !

Oh, well, here's how to remove the ply part without damaging it or the hull.  PVA is actually a plastic, and melts when it gets hot.  Take an iron (not your wife's best steam iron!) set to medium, and iron over the ply part.  Start at one end, and as it gets hot the glue will soften and you can work a craft knife under the ply and gently prise it up.  Working a small area at a time, I managed to get the part off without damaging it or the hull.  All I needed to do was sand the old glue off the hull and scrape it off the ply part, and we were back to square one.  I then turned the hull round, and started to apply the ply to the other side, so that the score lines were still on the inside.

I tried a different approach this time.  Again, I put a thin coat of glue on the hull and the ply part and then held it in place with just a few clamps as you can see below.  Now I took a cool iron (set to one dot) and ironed the ply down onto the hull.  The heat accelerates the drying time of the glue, and the wood will stick in place without the need for any extra clamps or pins.  I left it for 10 mins to cool/dry, and then gave it a last iron for good measure.  The part has stuck down quite firmly and has taken the curve of the hull very well.

I'm not going to glue the bilge keel on until all the planking has been completed and the hull sanded.  It's much easier to sand a hull without the bilge keel getting in the way !!

Things not yet done

Fitting the fore deck
Stern deck part 63 not fitted.
Fixing deck
Fitting resin stern part 70
Fitting resin propshaft part D
Fit the bilge keels

Hot tip of the week

Double check parts to make sure you've got them on the right way round !!!  (Smacks self on the forehead ala Homer Simpson !)

How many hours does it take to build the model ??

This week :

3 hrs

Running total :

133 hrs

Take me back to week 36

Take me to week 38