Week 10  This week structure for the aft hull

The bits we received

And what we did with them

This issue the last remaining parts for the framework of the hull.  I'm going to describe fitting the parts from both weeks 9 & 10.

From now on the rear of the keel must be held straight and upright.  This is because the keel section is quite flexible and can be easily moved out of true.  There are many ways this can be done.  You could use angle brackets screwed to a baseboard for example.  I happened to have two heavy pieces of metal that are square.  (The are actually valve chests waiting to be fitted to a steam loco).  These were used to hold the keel upright (mine had taken on a slight twist for some unknown reason.  It's not visible in the photo, but there is a centre line drawn on the paper that is used to make sure the keel is in line with the rest of the hull.  Frame 43 is fitted next.  Again, note the corner pieces to keep it square.  Let it dry thoroughly before continuing.

Then I fitted frames 39 & 40 from week 8, and the stringers, parts 50.

Next I fitted frame 44 and the stringers, 49.  Frame 45 has been left for the moment as it will be easier to slot in from underneath once the other parts are dry.

Here is frame 45 fitted. Now we just have a few miscellaneous parts to fit in various places.

Frame 46 doubler fitted.  Note that the frame is very slightly recessed when compared to the frame it glued to.  It is flush at the keel and less than 0.5mm at the sides.  (It looks more in the photo, but I think that the flash emphasises the white line against the brown edge.)  This is to allow for the way the stern sweeps in, and saves a little sanding.  However, if you're not completely sure about this, just make them flush, as per the instructions.  It will just take a little more sanding to get the right line.

Here is a close up of the stern, showing how the keel and doublers fit against the transom.

Parts 51.  I found that one of these didn't want to go quite to the end of the slot.  This would have given a slight hollow in the planking.  I used a ruler to gauge the correct position.  The ruler just rocked a little when placed on part 51 and the frames just forward and aft of it.  I.e., the planking will follow a nice curve.  If you're not sure about this, simply keep these parts until you have the planking and you can use that to check that you get a nice smooth line.

This is the final frame doubler.  Again, I've recessed it a little, but just make it flush if you're not sure.

The two little parts 57 are the end stops to stop the removable deck sliding backwards.  I used the deck beam in the photo to check that they were in a straight line.  They appear to be slightly too low, but I can easily fix that when I fit the deck.  At the moment I'm not sure if the parts 57 are too low, of the tops of the frames too high.

Finally, here is the forward end stop.  I placed this in position and draw round the frame so I could see where the glue needed to go.

This completes the frame work of the hull.  Time to give yourself a quick pat on the back and get ready for the planking.

Hot tip of the week

I thought I'd explain why I haven't done anything with the deck yet.  At the risk of stating the obvious, it's important that the frame work that makes up the deck supports has to line up with the top of the frames perfectly so that the deck fits properly.

When you plank the hull, the planks place quite a stress on the framework.  This is why it's vital that you plank evenly.  One plank on side, then one the other.  If you just plank one side alone the hull will warp.  However, even with planking the hull evenly it's possible that the hull will move a little bit.  Therefore I'm going to wait until the hull is complete and fully planked.  Then I will construct the deck framework, making sure it fits the hull perfectly. 

How many hours does it take to build the model ??

This week :

2 hrs

Running total :

11 hrs

Take me back to week 9

Take me to week 11