Week 6  This week the final forward keel plate, the forward upright keel and frames 25 & 27

The bits we received

And what we did with them

First I did the usual job of marking the centre lines on the keel plate and the frames.  Then I glued the forward keel plate to the hull, lining up the centre lines carefully.  This completes the flat bottom (what I've called the keel plates) of the model.  Make sure the doubler doesn't overlap the slots for the frame just behind it.  

Now I can go back to issue 5 and complete that assembly.

Once issue 5 was completed I attached frame 25 and let that dry.  Now I'd suggest waiting until issue 7 is available before continuing.  I have found that the hull is fairly self jigging.  I.e. It naturally assembles square, but only if you have all the interlinking pieces available.  Therefore I find it best to wait until I have all the parts for a particular section.

The flat keel and upright keel needed a few pencil marks to assist with alignment.

Frame 27 also needed some pencil marks to help with alignment.

The upright keel and frame 27 are glued in place, and then we move rapidly on to week 7 before the glue dries.

Hot tip of the week

How accurate do you need to be with your measuring ?  That depends on how good you want the model to be.  I like things to be straight and as true as I can get them, so I measure each piece in 4 to 6 places and draw a pencil line through them.  Most of the marks are spot on, but 1 or 2 may be a little out.  Taking the best line through 4 or 6 marks means that is doesn't matter if 1 is a bit out.  I reckon to get the lines within a pencil line thickness of dead centre.  This is plenty good enough for a model like this. 

However, even if you don't measure, the most you can be out is about 1mm, which is the play I've had in some parts.  With this amount of error you will find it a little more difficult to get the removable deck to fit, and maybe have more difficulty trying to line up the superstructure, etc. but you will have to look quite closely to see the errors on the finished model.

How accurate do you need to be ?  As accurate as you want to be.  A little more time spent measuring now will make it easier to get a better model, but it really is entirely up to you.

How many hours does it take to build the model ??

This week :

1 hrs

Running total :

6 hrs

Take me back to week 5

Take me to week 7